In this video, I’m padding aluminum beads. It’s some of the best practice you can get. I call this the aluminum drill. I’ve done versions of this before. I never was happy with the way they came out, so this time, I put a lot of care into it, and I’m using a Furick clear number eight cup, so you can … it just kind of lights everything up. You can see everything a lot better, and that makes it more instructional, so let’s do it.
Today, we’re talking about TIG welding restarts. You’re welding along and you have to stop for whatever reason, and you have to start again. That’s a restart, and you’d like to be able to make your restarts in such a way that you can’t really tell. So if you have to stop five times even in a six-inch run, it looks pretty much like there is one continuous bead. That’s the goal anyway, and that’s what we’re going to be talking about today. I’m going to try to show some real up close shots of the restart and describe what’s going on so that you’ll have a method in your mind on making consistent restarts. Also, I’m going to talk about something called the three-second rule. Let’s get into it.
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Today I’m going to be doing a little stick welding with 6011 rods, and I’m going to be welding on AC. Let’s do it. I’ve got this little joint tacked up here. It’s two lap joints and two sides of a T joint. I’m going to weld all joints up in different positions with the 6011 rod. 6011’s very much like a 6010, a cousin of a 6010, except that you can use AC. You can’t run 6010 on AC. The good thing about 6011’s is a lot of newer inverters today, will not run a 6010, but they will run a 6011. I think it’s a very handy rod to have for when you’re in a pinch, when you’re called on to go make a weld somewhere, and they tell you, “We’ve got everything you need. Just bring your helmet.” You might do yourself a favor to bring along some 6011 in different diameters.