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( As always, feel free to visit us at our sister site, WeldingTipsAndTricks.com. )
Click here to subscribe to my Video of the Week!
© 2024 Weldmonger™
Back to Top ↑
March 23, 2015 at 12:12 AM
I have a Hobart Cybertig with a 120 controller. This machine came with a WP20 torch and old Bernard water cooler. I have all the accessories to go from .040 to 1/8″ tungsten and use gas lenses almost exclusively. I recently took on a big job welding a LOT of 1/4″ 3003 aluminum, and this task was causing the WP20 torch to overheat. I ordered a WP18 knockoff, which handles the heat well, but the collets, gas lenses, and other components leave something to be desired. I was having a lot of trouble getting the 1/8″ collet tight and ended up stripping the threads on the 1/8″ gas lens I was using. I am seriously considering gettting a CK torch that will handle the 300+ amps of 60hz A/C. I like the coolant flow configuration of the CK and hope the collet hardware is better than my WP18 knockoff.
November 1, 2014 at 12:47 AM
Thanks for the info about the torches. When will you ad the torches on the monger store? And will you carry a water cooled torch for a lincoln precision tig 275 (flex loc).
October 6, 2014 at 4:26 PM
Hi Jody,
Can You do a comparition between the ihead rotohead and the ck flexloc, which is best? I aml planning to use this on a weco Discovery 220 ac/dc with watercooler.
Also a beginners question: what is the difference between gaslens and gas saver?
Thans and keep the good video’s coming.
Luc.
October 4, 2014 at 12:01 AM
Hi Jody love your stuff and this is way off topic but I was wondering if you could do a 12 on 12 branch test for a video ? I would love to see it
October 3, 2014 at 6:39 PM
thanks jody very informative
October 2, 2014 at 6:40 PM
Jody
Outstanding video, most informative. The C-K 17 FlexLock and the WeldTech Stubby Torch
look like the hot setup.Great job,keep the videos coming.
October 2, 2014 at 6:35 PM
Love your explanations Jody thanks for the help
October 1, 2014 at 7:17 PM
One of my favorite torches is the WeldTec i-head ball-joint. I also have a ck flex lock which is great because it swivels 360 degrees but the down side is you have the screw and the handle sticking out the side and if you have one I’m sure you’re like me and have melted that screw head more than a few times in tight spaces. With the weldtec ihead ball-joint you get that flexibility to adjust the head and lock it in place (although not nearly as much range in movement) without having something sticking out the side in the way. Jody if your looking for torches to carry I would highly recommend the weldtec ihead series.
September 30, 2014 at 9:01 PM
P.O. BOX 193
September 30, 2014 at 9:19 PM
Hi Jody,
I really like what you are doing for the welding world. Your videos are fantastic and you really know your stuff. You asked about what torches some people use. I use a Miller Dynasty 700 all day long for the company I work for. I weld ultra high vacuum chambers and the material varies from .015 Titanium to 3 inch thick aluminum chambers, and most of my welding is done with a CK 230 FX, a water cooled flex head. I absolutely swear by the CK torches, as they can weld above their ratings ( 300 amps at 100% duty on the 230 FX ) because of the huge water jackets around them. I weld anywhere from 7 amps to 325 amps with the same torch. When I weld 325 amps on thick aluminum, I use helium / argon mix and try not to weld more than 6 minutes pushing the torch that hard. When I go 400 – 470 amps I use a WeldCraft Super Cool 18, which I like as well. Sorry for being so long winded, but I am passionate about the CK torches. I also have the CK micro torches and pencil torches.
Thank you for all you do for welding!
September 30, 2014 at 8:51 PM
One note about the paddle style on/off switches. The ones that come zip tied to the torch handle. I have never gotten one of those to last more than two days using it for manual pulse. The plastic axle that the lever hinges on falls out (or halfway out) or the housing itself breaks. The best switches IMO, are either the little roller lever micro switches from places like radio shack that will last up to a year or so of heavy use, which is really the best value if you don’t use a switch very often. The best all around switch is the one that Miller supplies. It’s encased in rubber and I have one now that I have been using heavily every day for the last 12 years or so. Spendy, but well worth the $ IMO.
Great video as always.
September 30, 2014 at 7:07 PM
You said you wanted to know what we use. I have an Everlast 265s (I’ve never used the plasma) and an Everlast cooler. It came with an 18 torch which was big but ok, however, none of the aftermarket parts from other vendors, like lens kits, quite fit it. I got a 20 torch from HTP (it is a CK) which I like. It has a more flexible cable, aftermarket parts work, and fits the hand just fine. It also has a flex neck and 25 foot cable which is a little long, but when you need the extra 10 feet is great. The Everlast foot pedal is crap (for me), but Everlast has a SSC foot pedal available which works just right. Everlast used an odd DIN connector for the foot pedal, so get it from them. Also, CK used the quite standard Miller screw connectors on their water cooled torches and you can get converter fittings to the 9mm quick connects that Everlast uses. Very seldom have needed anything smaller than the 20, and have never needed anything larger.