TIG welding some carbon steel oil filter housings at Roy Crumrine’s Shop.
One of the welds had a “no melt thru” requirement so some pulse settings along with aluminum backing helped.
Do you use pulse?
What settings work for you?
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September 20, 2015 at 3:53 PM
Quick question when bying a stick welder what do I go for AC or DC cos I have use both and can’t find any different us ring 6013 rods what is the different why would you choose one over the other thanks Kevin in Ireland
September 20, 2015 at 4:15 PM
Hi Kevin,
If you are only ever going to use general purpose E6013 rods then a Cheaper AC MMA (Stick) welding set will do you however a DC machine will allow you to choose the whole range of arc welding rods for different positions, different strengths and different penetrations by choosing the optimum polarity DC+ or DC- for the application and the rod type. Take a look at https://uk.answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20090909230931AAzvsIT This site explains the AWS system of numbering rods.
Cheers,
John
September 20, 2015 at 5:10 PM
Thanks John also were I’m from the only rode that is available to by with out special order is the 6013 I watch a lot of YouTube an it’s mainly people from America who post vidoes on welding and they ues nothing only 7018 I just got my first box of them and find them extremely hard to use what is the best rode thanks kevin
September 20, 2015 at 5:41 PM
Hi Kevin,
Yes E7018 rods will be a bit harder to use compared to E6013. The 70 means it has a higher tensile strength of 70,000 psi compared with 60,000 for E6013s. You will find these will not flow as easily but with practice you will get these to work. You probably find that the slag (flux coating residue) is harder to chip off and may get into the weld which is not ideal. They are great for a root pass to get strength in critical welds particularly is you have a DC welding set with the Electrode (rod) connected to the +ve output (this is called DC reversed). This results in deep penetration. You must keep a short arc length i.e. the same length as the diameter of the rod is a good guide and concentrate on the puddle, don’t march along too fast, keep the puddle running while also controlling the arc length and the angle of your rod (about 80 degrees leaning forward).
Cheers,
John.
September 20, 2015 at 5:54 PM
Hi Kevin,
Having re read your last reply I may have assumed you had just received a box of 7018 electrodes but maybe you received a box of 6013s. If the latter these should weld easily. If you are finding 6013s difficult you must have your current setting incorrect or you are not controlling the arc and angles correctly. The slag should lift off on its own mainly in one piece or may need a tiny drag of the chipping hammer to remove. If you are finding you are chipping away like mad to remove the slag then I would say you are likely to have slag inclusion in the weld which is not good.
What is your rod size and what current are you running them at?
John
September 20, 2015 at 6:58 PM
Sorry john it’s the 7018 I’m haveing the trouble with they are 4mm running of a 200Amp Honda generator at the full 200 I can handle the 6013 no problem + the 6013 is the rode everyone has hear why do we not use the 7018 as much as America
September 21, 2015 at 1:23 AM
Hi Kevin,
what sort of trouble are you having? Have you tried reducing your current to 150 amps? 200 is the top end current for these rods and with ac you will get more spatter. As I said in my previous posts this rod is higher strength often used for high pressure boiler welding and shipyard work. What are you using these to weld? Is it necessary to choose these over 6013 general purpose rods?
Regards,
John
September 21, 2015 at 6:38 PM
No not at all I just wanted to try them the work I do is a lot of digger buckit repair and fixing my day job is all mig welding structural steel and site welding it’s just when I watch YouTube vidoes all the people on it are using 7018 and they are all doing the same work as me
September 24, 2015 at 7:03 PM
Hi John I would love to try tig welding but don’t no anything about it I have been a structural steel welder both in the workshop with mig and out on site with stick for 16 years but no nothing about tig but have watched a lot of vidoes on it what tipe of machine would I by to learn thanks
September 25, 2015 at 2:32 AM
I learned how to weld properly at college evening classes that I attended for a few years on the trot. TIG welding is one of the harder forms of welding but I find it very rewarding. I have a Murex (now ESAB) single phase 230 Amp AC/DC machine with a water cooler. For learning you really only need a DC machine which will be suitable for most metals except Aluminium. DC only are cheaper than combined AC/DC sets. The biggest problem is the need to buy or rent a pure Argon (inert gas) cylinder as you cannot use an active Argon/CO2 mix as used for MIG/MAG. The Argon cylinder also needs to be fitted with Argon only regulators and flow rate controls. When buying a TIG set make sure you take account of the Argon cylinder and valve gear. I highly recommend you get some hands on instruction from another welder or local college. You will probably have a lot of tungsten touch downs requiring tungsten re grinds and grinding out the tungsten contamination from the weld at first. This is a common novice error.
September 18, 2015 at 4:02 AM
Hi Jody,
when using that size cup and long stick out, what argon flow rate are you setting?
John.
September 17, 2015 at 7:36 AM
Question reguarding collets , do you use,or your thoughts on the wedge type collets.
I have been using one on my #17 for a while and like it.
Glenn
HTP welder